Ferret Shampoo

Clean, fresh chlorine-free water must always be available. Change it daily. All water given must be 100% free of chlorine and heavy metals. (Not all home water filtration systems remove 100% of the chlorine and heavy metals from tap water). We recommend that you use unflavored bottled drinking water or bottled natural spring water; never use untreated tap water. If tap water is used, you should treat it with a de-chlorinating treatment. Do not use distilled water, which can cause severe medical problems, since it lacks minerals that are essential to important body functions.

General Information Ferrets are mustelids that belong to the same family as skunks, minks, weasels, badgers and otters. Unless you plan to breed a ferret, it should be neutered (or de-sexed) by the time it is 6 months old. Neutering makes males less aggressive and protects females from aplastic anemia and septicemia, two diseases that are predominant causes of ferret death.

Ferrets are prone to ear mites, so every few weeks their ears should be cleaned with a cotton swab soaked in a cleanser purchased at a pet supply store. Like dogs and cats, ferrets are prone to fleas and ticks as well, but a veterinarian should help you meet their needs by adapting the flea control program in place for dogs and cats.

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Rated 5 out of 5 by CoCoRae2004 very soothing My critters have itchy skin problems. Since using this shampoo, their skin has healed, and they are much more comfortable. The smell is very pleasant, and lasts long after their bath. September 23, 2013 Rated 5 out of 5 by BandersMom Great products for a great price We have purchased the no tears ferret shampoo and the ferret sprtiz. ! The shampoo smells great, goes a long way and works well to clean our ferret. The spritz also lasts a long time and has a great almost baby powder smell. Our ferret loves being “spritzed” a few sprays and he smells wonderful for almost the whole day. January 31, 2011 Rated 4 out of 5 by Heather1021 Works pretty good My husband and I personally don’t even notice a smell on our fuzzy. But when we have sensitive nosed guests come over, we give her a spritz and voila’ she smells like baby powder. Lasts a little into the next day. January 11, 2014

To clean the ears, get a mild ear cleaning solution from your vet or pet store – something safe for kittens should be okay for ferrets. My recommended method is to put a few drops in the ear, massage the ear for a bit, then let the ferret shake his/her head like crazy. This is great for dislodging wax, but it can be messy so you want to do this in an area that is easily cleaned such as the bathroom. A cotton-tipped swab moistened with the cleaner can be used to wipe out the external part of the ear. Never push a cotton swab into the ear canal! If your ferret is particularly squirmy, be extra cautious to avoid pushing wax down into the ear canal.

There is much debate on grooming a ferret. However you will know when it is time for certain things to take places. Generally ferrets need their nails cut every two to three weeks. Their nails grow very fast and can get snagged, causing pain and sometimes may result in a broken leg. Baby nails clippers work great. Also you may need two people. Ferrets do need baths. The rule is three to four times a year and normally during and after shedding. This helps to keep oils and odor at a minimum. Not all ferrets like bath time. Some however love to swim. You will need to have plenty of towels on hand as well as either ferret shampoo or baby shampoo. Place your ferret in the tub with about 3-4 inches of lukewarm water. Ensure not to get the head or ears wet. Get your ferrets coat nice and wet; add a small amount of shampoo to the back of your ferret and wash. Rinse off your ferret very well. Dry with a towel as much as possible. Then lay several towels on the floor and enjoy the show. If you notice that your ferret is a bit oily but it’s not bath time yet, try a rice bath. Fill a box or container with uncooked rice, place your ferret inside and watch him have fun, while getting clean. Ear cleaning should take place at bath times. You will need Q- tips and some water. Wet one end of the Q-tip, squeeze out the extra water. Whiling holding your ferret on your lap, quickly wipe the inside of the ear with the wet Q-tip. Then dry with the other end of the Q-tip. Do not go in too far.

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Cleansing & Bathing The small furry animals mentioned above need a bath only if they smell bad or if their rear ends are sticky with urine or caked with fecal matter. When that is the case, use a mild shampoo for cats and kittens, and carefully bathe the pet in lukewarm water in the sink or in a small plastic dishpan. Rinse, then blot dry with a towel and keep it in a warm, draft-free area until it is completely dry, as rodents are highly susceptible to chilling.

Why does my ferret pant when he gets a bath? Pippa Elliott, MRCVS Veterinarian, Royal College of Veterinary Surgeons Pippa Elliott, MRCVS He may either be too warm or stressed. Check the temperature of the water isn’t too hot. Some ferrets will pant when stressed, but it can also be a sign of chest or heart problems. To be on the safe side, watch the ferret breathing when he’s relaxed or asleep. Count how many breaths he takes in a minute. If he takes more than 30 – 40 breaths when at rest then a vet check is a good idea. Thanks! Yes No Not Helpful 2 Helpful 7

Most ferrets are purchased or adopted already spayed or neutered. If your new ferret is NOT, it is extremely important to do so. It should be considered just as important as spaying or neutering a pet dog or cat. Spaying or neutering your ferret will extend its healthy lifetime. By altering your pet, the risk of reproductive cancers is reduced, aggressive behavior is reduced, urine spraying is reduced and the ability to litter train becomes easier.

You are here: Home / SMALL ANIMAL CARE SMALL ANIMAL CARE 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Care & Habitat For Small Furry Animals Gerbils, Guinea Pigs, Hamsters, Mice & Rats Although gerbils, guinea pigs, hamsters, mice and rats belong to the rodent family, each species has its own particular habits and specific needs. Choosing A Cage Choosing the proper cage will not only increase your enjoyment of the animal but also play an important role in its health. Ask your pet supplies dealer to recommend the type of cage to use, and tell you how to set it up and equip it with the proper accessories. The pet store owner can also recommend a variety of natural, non-toxic, absorbent shavings and other bedding and nesting materials for small animals. Placement of the cage is important. Since rodents are highly susceptible to chilling and overheating, keep the cage in a well-ventilated room but away from drafts, air conditioning vents, radiators, or windows that are hit by direct sunlight. You should also ensure that other pets, specifically cats or dogs, cannot jab their paws or noses in the cage or otherwise gain access to it. Cleaning The Cage It is extremely important to keep the cage hygienically clean, because rodent urine is not only unpleasant smelling but also, and more importantly, a primary source of allergens. Although rodents are naturally clean in the wild, when they are confined to a cage, urine and fecal matter accumulate quickly and cause a strong odor. In addition, certain rodents, particularly males that have matured sexually, emit a strong-smelling odor from their scent glands. Frequent cage cleaning will also help to reduce the amount of dander and salivary proteins which additionally can trigger allergies in sensitive individuals. Once a day, remove any damp clumps of bedding in the cage corners that have been used as a bathroom with an old spoon or tiny scoop. Replace bedding once a week and wash the toys, exercise wheels, seesaws, and any other cage accessories. Once a month, wash the cage in hot soapy water to which a few drops of disinfectant has been added. Ask your pet supplies dealer to recommend a disinfectant safe for rodents; don’t use strong household cleaners. While you do the cleaning, of course, you will need to place the animals in a separate cage or well-ventilated box to keep them safe. Rinse the cage thoroughly and dry before adding fresh bedding and nesting material (experts recommend putting back a bit of old nesting material to make it “smell like home”). Food Fresh food and water should always be available. Food containers that attach to the cage or heavy earthenware dishes are recommended because they can’t be tipped over. Water in a bowl will become contaminated within minutes; a hanging bottle with a stainless steel sipping tube that attaches to the cage is more practical and provides water in a form that cannot be spilled. The pet simply licks the tube when it wants water. However, check to see that your pet does not pile up bedding against the tube nozzle, however, or water will flood the cage. Small furry pets, especially guinea pigs, can be quite messy, scattering food about the cage, defecating in feeding bowls, and spitting food back into water bottles. Every day, you should pick up any spilled food particles on the floor of the cage; otherwise they will become contaminated by urine, fecal matter or soiled bedding, and make your pet sick if ingested. Food and water dishes should be washed before you refill them. Scrub the water dispenser with a bottle brush to prevent algae from developing inside. Care And Grooming Each of these species is extremely clean, grooming themselves and each other as instinctual behavior and as an important activity during their time awake. need little grooming. They keep themselves and each other scrupulously clean. Being desert animals, native to arid regions of northeastern China and eastern Mongolia, they excrete very little urine and have hardly any odor. Gerbils need to be brushed occasionally with a small bristle brush or soft toothbrush. pigs require grooming once or twice a week. English smooth-coated guinea pigs are brushed from head to tail, in the direction the fur grows, with a small soft bristle brush or toothbrush to remove dead hair from the coat. Abyssinian rough-coated and Peruvian long-haired guinea pigs are brushed (with a small, soft bristle brush) and combed from the skin outward to keep the hair from matting. Peruvian guinea pigs require a great deal of attention to keep their long hair in good condition; if not, the fur will mat and urine and feces will be trapped in it. spend a great deal of their waking time grooming themselves thoroughly with their tongues, their teeth and paws to keep their fur in good condition. They will contort themselves into unusual positions to reach all parts of the body. Shorthaired hamsters need to be brushed occasionally while longhaired types need more frequent grooming with a small bristle brush or soft toothbrush. Mice and rats are extremely fastidious. They will groom themselves — and each other in a colony — without any help from their owners. Cleansing & Bathing The small furry animals mentioned above need a bath only if they smell bad or if their rear ends are sticky with urine or caked with fecal matter. When that is the case, use a mild shampoo for cats and kittens, and carefully bathe the pet in lukewarm water in the sink or in a small plastic dishpan. Rinse, then blot dry with a towel and keep it in a warm, draft-free area until it is completely dry, as rodents are highly susceptible to chilling. To cleanse the dander, urine and saliva allergens from small furry pets, once a week, moisten a washcloth with Allerpet Pet Dander Remover™. Rub over the fur both with and against its growth. Blot dry with a towel and keep the pet in a warm place until it is completely dry. The weekly treatment with an allergy cleansing lotion will also keep the animal clean and sweet-smelling. Wash your hands immediately after handling your pet. FERRETS General Information Ferrets are mustelids that belong to the same family as skunks, minks, weasels, badgers and otters. Unless you plan to breed a ferret, it should be neutered (or de-sexed) by the time it is 6 months old. Neutering makes males less aggressive and protects females from aplastic anemia and septicemia, two diseases that are predominant causes of ferret death. Grooming Your Ferret Ferrets are fastidious animals and they clean themselves regularly, however some additional grooming is required by the owner. This involves removing loose, dead hairs with a soft bristle brush about once a week, plus moistening a cotton ball with peroxide and carefully wiping the inside of the ears to remove excess wax and dirt. Nails also need trimming; squeamish owners can have this done by a professional groomer or veterinarian. Cleansing Your Ferret Even when ferrets have been de-scented they still have some musky odor and their coat tends to feel greasy, so they need frequent shampoos. Special ferret shampoos are available to help control musk odors and to condition the skin and coat; you could also use a shampoo for cats. After the shampoo, rinse thoroughly so that all traces of suds are removed. Ferrets have a waterproof coat that is difficult to dry. Blot the hair with a towel and keep the ferret in a warm, draft-free room until it is completely dry. To control dander, sponge the ferret with Allerpet Pet Dander Remover™ once a week. Moisten a washcloth or sponge with Allerpet; rub the fur in both directions, then dry as usual.

Two other alternatives are Program (which contains lufenuron) and Sentinel, monthly oral tablets that put flea-killing chemicals in your ferret’s bloodstream. Use the cat dosage per pound for your ferret, and feed with a meal. When the flea ingests the ferret’s blood, it lays sterile eggs. The disadvantage is that fleas must bite your ferret first, and it takes several months to break the breeding cycle. The long-term toxic effects of lufenuron in the ferret’s bloodstream have not been studied. Program and Sentinel can be used at the same time as Advantage or Frontline. Why the flea fuss? Aside from skin infection and allergies, flea bites cause ferrets to lose sleep, stop eating and become irritable. Also, it doesn’t take many flea bites to cause anemia from lack of blood. Fleas can also transmit diseases, and if a flea is accidentally ingested, tapeworms (intestinal parasites) can be a serious problem. Flea infestations can be challenging to solve, but patience and continuous treatments will eliminate these parasites.

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Ferrets’ ancestors were den animals, so the home you create should be like a den, too. Use a wire cage that’s at least 18 inches long, 18 inches deep, and 30 inches wide. Many ferrets prefer bi-level cages that feature stairs or ramps that ferrets can climb, and shelves or hammocks where ferrets can perch. Avoid aquariums, which provide poor ventilation. Because ferrets are accomplished escape artists, the cage should feature a secure latch and openings no larger than one inch by two inches. Since wire flooring is uncomfortable to a ferret’s feet, place linoleum tiles on the floor or line the cage bottom with soft material such as washable carpet. Not all materials will work, however: wood flooring is difficult to disinfect, newspaper will blacken a ferret’s feet, and cedar chips hold in bad odors and may even cause respiratory problems. Place the cage away from direct sunlight, in a cool, shaded area where temperatures range between 55 and 70 degrees. Clean bedding with a mild detergent and hot water, then disinfect the cage.

Allow ferrets to dry themselves. After the bath, ferrets will want to try to dry themselves by rubbing their fur on warm, dry surfaces. Pick a designated drying space for your ferret, and lay down clean towels and blankets for him to use. You should keep the ferret in a contained area during the drying process. He might roll or rub on a dirty surface, meaning he’ll need another bath. Do not be alarmed. Many ferret owners are surprised by the erratic movements of a ferret after a bath, but this is normal ferret behavior and not a cause for concern.

Trim your ferret’s nails at least once a month. Most ferrets need to have their nails trimmed more often. Trimming your ferret’s nails not only helps keep them blunt, so they aren’t as likely to scratch you; it helps keep your ferret from snagging his nails on bedding and carpets. Ferrets have been known to actually tear a nail out by the roots when they’ve caught it on something. This is extremely painful to the ferret, and may require a trip to the veterinarian for stitches and antibiotics.

 

Ferret Shampoo for washing the cute guys.

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